Tag Archives: Travel

Visitar Avignon e os campos de lavanda em flor.

O verão está a terminar. Há um silêncio que regressa ao meu apartamento. Durante todo o verão houve um ruído de fundo. Uma mistura dos motores dos barcos, das motas de água e das crianças a brincar na praia. Agora há apenas o silêncio interceptado de quando em vez pelo comboio.

Desde que a easyjet abriu o vôo Lisboa – Nice que há muitos portugueses a visitar a região. Acredito que se deixem seduzir pelos destinos mais comuns: Cannes, Monaco, Nice e Saint-Tropez. Eu prefiro as pequenas vilas incrustadas à beira-mar ou na montanha. Assim como os recantos dos Caps e os pontos altos das colinas que transformam rocha e mar em partitura musical.

Para aqueles que pensam voltar ao sul de França deixo a sugestão de uma região a visitar no início de Julho. É preferível optar pelo vôo Lisboa – Marselha porque esta região da Provence fica mais próximo de Marselha do que de Nice. Falo-vos de Avignon, a região da lavanda.

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Avignon é conhecida como cidade papal, uma vez que foi a residência dos Papas entre 1309 e 1377. Cidade de ruelas que contornam o majestoso edíficio Papal,  é conhecida pela sua ponte, que não chega à outra margem do Rhône. É uma cidade óptima para fazer em bicicleta. Se visitarem escolham um hotel no interior das muralhas – tem outro charme, mesmo que seja um pouco mais caro. E já agora. Se há uma razão que me poderá fazer voltar à Avignon é um restaurante onde jantámos: “Epicerie”.

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Mas o segredos do Vaucluse estão fora de Avignon. Fazer a rota das lavandas fazia parte do meu imaginário da Provence. O tempo tem mais tempo nesta região, assim como a noção de espaço e liberdade. Os vinhos e os sabores gastronómicos parecem mais genuínos do que aqueles que experimentamos junto ao mar. Não vou sugerir itenerários porque para mim a melhor parte da viagem é quando me perco.

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Não longe de Avignon têm Cassis e as suas Calanques. Honestamente acho preferível visitar Cassis e as Calanques em Maio ou Setembro (por ter menos turistas) mas nessa altura a lavanda não está em flor no Vaucluse.

Bons passeios para todos vós…

Lisboa romântica. A nossa Lisboa.

Lisboa está diferente. Os prédios renovados. Os milhares de turistas. A proliferação de tuk tuks e ubers e hostels e airbnb´s. Os restaurantes com lista de espera e os espaços vintage com loiça Bordalo Pinheiro. Os terraços que vendem a luz e o rio e os sabores tradicionais (mesmo que provenientes de franchisings). Os miradouros que se enchem de atracções e carteiristas e vendedores de droga (ou louro e farinha).

Como em todas as mudanças há coisas boas e outras menos boas. Um dos grandes desafios da cidade será de manter a sua identidade e a identidade das suas gentes. De que vale ter a Graça ou Alfama ou a Mouraria saturada de airbnb´s e hostels, se os moradores que lhe dão alma foram obrigados a procurar outras moradas? De que vale ter restaurantes que adaptam os seus menus a sabores franceses, se esta é a oportunidade de mostrar aos que visitam Lisboa a riqueza da gastronomia portuguesa? De que vale ter uma Lisboa acessível às carteiras do norte da Europa quando os lisboetas não podem usufruir dos seus monumentos, restaurantes e esplanadas?

Lisboa continua a ser a cidade que melhor conheço. A cidade que se avista das muralhas do Castelo. As paredes de outros tempos da loja Tous do Chiado. A fuga ao Oriente pelo interior da Casa do Alentejo. O nascer do dia nas Portas do Sol. A mousse de chocolate do terraço do Hotel Bairro Alto. As margens do Tejo em bicicleta. O pôr-do-sol no Cais das Naus. A estação do Rossio que se ilumina. A calçada portuguesa que nos ilustra os passos. As fachadas de azulejos e os muros de grafittis. As sardinhas que não gosto mas que fazem os prazers gustativos de quem gosto… Foi assim o meu último fim-de-semana. Lisboa romântica. Nossa Lisboa…

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Como diz a minha querida amiga Teresa. Mais do que o destino, importa com quem o vivemos.

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Bom fim-de-semana.

My hiking views… (porque eu sou do tamanho do que vejo!)

Comecei a fazer hiking numa altura em que não se chamava hiking. Os “jogos de pistas” ou “percursos de orientação” marcaram a minha adolescência. Memórias que guardo com saudade. Caminhadas longas, impressas nos pés sob a forma de bolhas. As noites ao relento no topo dos montes e montanhas. As fotografias com temporizador para captar o movimento aparente das estrelas. O amor platónico. A fotografia. A fotografia. A fotografia. As estórias. Os fogos de concelho na praia ou nas clareiras de florestas. Os acordes de viola. As caricaturas. Rirmo-nos de nós. Em gargalhadas sonoras.

A idade não me roubou a harmonia que sinto quando estou em espaços naturais. Um estado de energia superior. A ansia de descobrir novas paisagens. De as captar com a câmara. Ou de simplesmente me sentar a contemplar e ouvir o silêncio que ecoa nas escarpas. Por vezes. Não raras vezes. Não fotográfo. Porque o que vejo é de tal forma perfeito, que qualquer fotografia seria injusta ao horizonte.

Nos últimos anos tenho feito percursos inesquecíveis. Hoje partilho  convosco. alguns dos trilhos que tive o privilégio de fazer.

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Rota Vicentina, Alentejo – Portugal.

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Rota Vicentina, Alentejo – Portugal.

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Rota del Cares, Asturias – Espanha.

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Rota del Cares, Asturias – Espanha.

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Grand Canyon, Arizona – USA.

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Grand Canyon, Arizona – USA.

Tenerife, Espanha.

Tenerife, Espanha.

Tenerife, Espanha.

Tenerife, Espanha.

Gerês, Portugal.

Gerês, Minho – Portugal.

Gerês, Portugal.

Gerês, Minho – Portugal.

Gerês, Portugal.

Gerês, Minho – Portugal.

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Mercantour, PACA – France.

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Mercantour, PACA – France.

Madeira, Portugal.

Madeira, Portugal.

L´Esterel, PACA - France.

L´Esterel, PACA – France.

Termino este post com um poema que gosto muito de Alberto Caeiro (Heterónimo de Fernando Pessoa):

<

Eu sou do tamanho do que vejo.

Da minha aldeia vejo quanto da terra se pode ver no Universo…
Por isso a minha aldeia é tão grande como outra terra qualquer
Porque eu sou do tamanho do que vejo
E não, do tamanho da minha altura…
Nas cidades a vida é mais pequena
Que aqui na minha casa no cimo deste outeiro.

Na cidade as grandes casas fecham a vista à chave,
Escondem o horizonte, empurram o nosso olhar para longe de todo o céu,
Tornam-nos pequenos porque nos tiram o que os nossos olhos nos podem dar,
E tornam-nos pobres porque a nossa única riqueza é ver.

>

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Lac de Trécolpas, 2150m – Mercantour, PACA – France.

Até breve!

Emigrate, Comma (1): Cuba from far…

Name: Undefined
Gender: Male
Age: 36 years-old
Naturality: Cuba (Havana)
Current address: Western Europe
Profession: undefined

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He asked us to remain anonymous, mostly for the well-being of his family. We respected. What does name, face or profession matter… when we receive from him the simplicity of a mature speech about Cuba, about the person he was and the person he is! The eyes, that conserve the essence of a child’s gaze, showed emotion in the absence of fitting words. In a way, the prolonged silences were also a way of saying… something more than can be carried in words.

At what age did you get out of Cuba?
I left Cuba for the first time at 28 years-old, for a three-month long internship in Sevilla. At that time, in 2006, I had 20€ per week for food. I was fascinated with Carrefour. I had never been in a supermarket with that size, with so many possibilities and choices! In Cuba, supermarkets are small and there is no such thing as variety of products.

What did you do during weekends? How did you enjoy your free time?
I didn’t have free time, since due to the lack of money I used to work all the time. I was drawing an extreme pleasure from my job, everything was easier than in Cuba, and because of that, I was working 7 days per week. In that way, I would forget that I was hungry and would manage to save my money.

How did that opportunity to leave Cuba arise?
To leave Cuba it is necessary to have an authorization from the government. My boss had a collaboration with Spain, and the opportunity arised – to me, it was fundamentally the opportunity to get to know the world outside of Cuba – but at the time I thought it would be only for three months.

And how was it to return to Cuba?
It was a blend of feelings. I was happy because I missed my family. Sad because in Sevilla, everything was easier. Doing my work was easier, things worked, I felt that I was in a big country, open to the world, I didn’t have any constraints – deep inside I think I was fascinated with the novelty of a world that I had recently started to discover.

How many times did you talk to your family, during the time you spent in Sevilla?
I believe three or four times.

Later, you left Cuba again. This time it was almost permanent. How was that decision?
The decision to leave Cuba permanently came up one year and a half later. My life in Cuba changed – my marriage ended and I was having some trouble at work. Havana became too small a city for me. The experience I had in Sevilla was ultimate for my decision to leave. I had the lifetime experience where everything was easier – in Cuba the amount of energy you put into making something happen is much greater. My main objective was to leave Cuba, I didn’t care where to. If today I reflect about my route, it’s interesting to understand that in the beggining my greatest desire was to leave – and now, after having lived in different European countries, I am more selective. Now I want to choose the place where I want to live in.

And how is that choice made? What are your priorities?
Basically, I want to feel happy. This means to be able to do my job and have the necessary safety in order to build a family. I can say that right now I’m much less afraid than when I left Cuba.

Do you imagine your life again in Cuba?
Yes… (silence).

What changed?

I changed… (silence). Maybe because my perception of Cuba is nowadays a nostalgic perception. To me, Cuba is the place where I was born, where I studied, where I have my family. It is possible that I don’t even know how Cuba is today. When I tell you that I could imagine my life back in Cuba, the man who speaks is not the same man who didn’t know the world, who felt limited… I speak as someone who misses the good things, but also appreciates the freedom of Europe, being able to come and go whenever you want, who has money to travel, who has big supermarkets, advertisement – in Cuba there is no such thing as advertisement – who has internet… Cubans are very polite people, with a great sense of moral and social values, and in a certain way, they are very western. In spite of this, there is a particular circumstance – time stopped in Cuba -, for you to understand, it’s as if Europe had stopped in time, after the cold war. Cuba is a place outside of the world. A proof of that is the lack of internet connection, as known to the rest of the world.

Do you feel that the political situation in Cuba limited the person you are?
In Cuba, everything is politics. Although I studied medicine for some years, I quit the course, because I didn’t want to depend on the government. Maybe it’s hard for you to understand what I mean, but in Cuba, if you study Medicine, it means that you’ll have to work all your life under the decisions of the political power. If they decide that you’re going two years to Venezuela, or any other country of Cuban relationship, you are forced to go – disregarding family and personal will. If you decide that you want to have a personal experience abroad, you will have to request a liberation letter, that shows they’ve allowed you to leave. Between the request for that document, and its actual issuance, the average waiting time is ten years. If you decide to go on vacation and don’t come back, it means that you will actually never be allowed to come back – and it may also mean that your family will never be able to leave as well. This is the Cuba that I left behind – many things are changing as we speak – and from January on, according to what’s planned, entering/leaving the country will be done in a much more freer way.

How will Cuba be different? In your opinion?
It will be different… It is different… I don’t know if it’s for better, but different… (silence). In Cuba there are good things. For instance Guatemala or Honduras are countries which have political situations similar to Cuba, but where almost nothing works. In Cuba, the public health and education systems work very well – in fact, there are no private systems. And it is a society that is not based in capitalist principles, like consumism or huge social differences. When there is hunger, everyone is hungry. When things get better, they get better for most of the people. It doesn’t make sense to steal, for instance. Because everyone has the same – which is almost nothing, but still enough to live. When I say that I don’t know if Cuba is changing for the best, I’m refering to political changes. In Cuba there are elections, but there is only one party. And one single candidate. People vote for that candidate. At the moment, a law was approved that determines that elegible roles have a 5 year duration and that the same person can only keep the role for 2 terms. This will be a severe change in relation to the past.

Cuba in three positive aspects:
1. Public education.
2. Public health.
3. Social equality.

And three negative aspects:
(silence)
1. Too much relevance of the political power – in Cuba, everything is related with the government. In Cuba, either you’re with the government or against them. Being that, if you happen to be against the government, you life – and your family’s life – becomes very complicated. And when I say very complicated, I mean, really difficult.
2. Isolation.
3. Cubans are sometimes, untrustworthy people.

What do you carry in yourself, of Fidel Castro?
Pride!

What do you mean with that?
Every Cuban is immensely proud of Cuba, and that pride comes from Castro. We are a small country who faced a giant country like the United States. Cuba works in many ways, we kept our identity and we didn’t bow. That is the Cuban pride, and I believe that’s what my biggest inheritance from Castro.

What’s your biggest fear for Cuba?
Cuban system will probably change to a democracy as known in western countries. Since we have been under a dictatorship for more than five decades, I am not sure that Cubans know how to deal with that. And there might be people willing to take advantages from these circumstances. Finally, the good things remaining from the Revolution may be lost.

I will ask you to fill out some sentences that I will tell you:

If I was a color I would be: White. Because it’s simple and bright.

I don’t like … lying … people.

Europe is … interesting.

From Cuba, I miss… my family.

I will return to Cuba to live, if… I don’t know. I think it will be unlikely.

My dream for Cuba is… that it holds the maturity to take the right decisions.

The place I want to be is… my wife.

By:

Interview and Text: Paula Pousinha
Translation and Revision: Christian Marques (electricganesha.wordpress.com)
Illustration: Sara Franco (www.sarafranco.net)